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Bruno Clavelier
This estate belonged to Bruno’s Grandfather who sold most of the wine to the
négoces, in this case his son, (Bruno’s father) who had his own business in
Comblanchien. This was sold in 92 and Bruno was installed at the domaine.
For this reason there are no Domaine Clavelier wines prior to 1992.
He grows grass between the rows of vines, for several reasons, one to
encourage deeper roots, secondly it encourages the microbiology, thirdly it
assists the digestion of earth through to the roots and that is because of
microbes on the roots themselves which help break down the bits and pieces
for the root system and for the biodiversity of insects.
With grass you get flowers and with flowers you get more insects, so that is
good news because it means that if the insects are all killed by insecticide
and there are none at all, and then something comes along that’s not very
good it tends to take over in a virulent way. By having a diversity of
insects, nothing is dominant, so there are no dramatic virulent attacks –
you’ll lose something, but not in such a virulent way.
He compares it to having streptococcus in a hospital, which is so perfectly
technically clean, that any diseases there, when they do turn up tend to be
extremely virulent. He uses pine oil and clay to create an acidic medium to
spray on the vines, to protect them from mushrooms, such as oidium. He also
does a sort of homeopathic vaccination, which he compares with a man being
on a drip in a hospital, which enables him to live forever. Similarly, if
you just feed vines and their roots with fertilisers and insecticides,
they’ll live forever, but never be very strong.
For the homeopathic vaccination, he creates an infusion of mildew by
collecting a few old manky bunches of grapes and then take a selection of
that infusion and dilute it down, take a selection of that dilution and
dilute it and repeat to end with a very very dilute form of mildew, which
can then be sprayed on the vines before the onset of mildew itself and it
creates a reaction with the hormones and enzymes in the vines, which come
out to counter the mildew before a proper attack of mildew comes and that
stops the real attack of mildew having any effect. Also other trials
are underway, but they are a bit secret, so he’s not letting us know about
those at the moment. By using less chemicals the vine is stronger - a bit
like a person with antibiotics – if you give them all the time, the end of
being very weak and their defences very poor and it’s the same with the
vine. It’s question of acceptable losses and isolated outbreaks rather than
virulent outbreaks and total losses.
Another aspect of his belief is that you have to be very gentle with the
grapes and not being aggressive with the handling of them is essential if
you don’t want to filter or fine them. So he doesn’t use any pumps – just
gravity or pushing the wine with air. 90% of the quality of the wine is
achieved in the vines and only 10% being responsible in the cellar and
that’s by being very respectful of the wine. Not cooling too much, not doing
anything too technological. The more technology you have the further away
from the terroir you get. No artificial extraction for this again starts
causing problems.
He’s likely to have quite a lot of his vines near what is known as la friche,
which is scrubland as this ensures a good insect diversity.
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