Domaine Leflaive
This famous domaine is run by the wispy Anne-Claude Leflaive, with Pierre Morey of Meursualt being her right hand man since 1988. This estate is now 100% biodynamically run after trials on a third of the domaine for some years now. When the option to go 100% presented itself, the vineyard workers were unanimous in their decision to proceed, despite the fact that they would be doing all the work and exposed to ridicule by their contemporaries. To us this says the most about the Biodynamic concept. They could of course just be trying to keep their jobs – or perhaps they are paid by the hour….
When one asks Pierre Morey (rather than Anne-Claude) about the bizarre treatments they use he is evidently thoroughly embarrassed and uncomfortable. But then as he readily admits ‘I don’t understand it fully – but it works.’ And the cuvées here that have been both Bio and normally grown do seem to be different; the former has that extra degree of complexity. Biodynamics encourage higher alcohol levels, also better natural acidities.