Etienne Sauzet
When it comes to Puligny Montrachet one is either a Leflaive or a Sauzet fan – and it seems to be quite polarised. For me this is the number one white wine estate, but there are those who find the wines simply too subtle, too understated. Agreed, the wines do not show well young, appearing disjointed and angular even, while Leflaive wines show well throughout their lifespan. But to be a Sauzet fan, you need patience, for these wines always take longer to reach full maturity, owing to the higher acidity levels inherent in these wines. But when they ‘arrive’ there is nothing more evocative than a Sauzet wine; the intensity of flavour combined with the sublime balance of the wines, everything in harmony, whether it is a humble Villages Puligny or a Grand Cru Chevalier, these wines are poetry. But you must wait. If you cannot, don’t waste your time with these wines.