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Georges Roumier
Not only does Christophe make some of the best wine in Chambolle, he is a
charming fellow too. France’s Napoleonic code of inheritance as usual caused
quite an upset. When he inherited his share of his Grandfather’s estate,
rather than keep the domaine together and thereby have to work with his
cousins, he decided to go his own way – much to the consternation of the
family. He realised that what he wanted to do was almost heretical those
days; low yields, domaine bottling etc. and there was a lot of bad blood.
Things have changed, Christophe has succeeded, and the shoe is on the other
foot now.
How do his wines compare to the other great domaines? They seem to me to
have a richness, a ‘velvetiness’ where de Vogüé and Mugnier are silkier.
For me the wines of Chambolle are the greatest turn on. They are the most
sexy. Vosne may be more up front, Gevrey more powerful, but Musigny for me
is the most enthralling wine in the world.
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