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Marquis d'Angerville
2002 saw the loss of Jacques d'Angerville who dedicated his life towards
impeccable winemaking. His son Guillaume has continued his father's good
work along with Jacques' son-in-law who has been working at the domaine for
the last 15 years.
This is a favourite domaine of ours and the Reynier family
has had a long association with it. In Monsieur Le Marquis’ office there is
a giant old book with every order written in to it. In 1926 Mark's
Grandfather bought a fût of Clos des Ducs and several cases of Champans. It
was the Marquis’ father, also called Jacques, who had led the attack against
the négociants at that time, who were up to all sorts of tricks with
blending in different wines even from outside the area to bolster up the
weaker wines. Believe it or not, despite the rigorous checks and laws this
is still happening in Bordeaux. Jacques d’Angerville, Armand Rousseau,
and Henri Gouges were consequently unable to sell their wine in to the
market and so were obliged to bottle and market it themselves. The first
domaine bottlers.
The cellars occupy an old Roman site; the baths are clearly visible, as is a
Roman grotto around a spring in the parkland along side. This is a peaceful
place with a pleasant view as Volnay is quite high up perched underneath the
hilltop.
Like Gouges, the vines were propagated from within the domaine by the
Marquis’ father to a specific strain. They are old - yields are low, so
there is a concentration of flavours. The wines here are exuberant, fine,
and so very, very pure indeed. One of the best vertical tastings Mark ever
attended was one done a couple of years ago on d’Angerville’s Volnay
Champans, with ten vintages going back to 1971. The wine maker, the land,
the proportion of old vines were all the same; the only difference was the
vintage characteristics – nature. These wines age very well indeed. Volnay
(or ‘Vollenay’ as it appears on the labels, from the Roman origin) is the
Chambolle Musigny of the Côte de Beaune in that it is refined, attractive,
and sexy. This does not mean they are short lived; on the contrary it ages
extremely well. These are some of the finest wines in Burgundy – and they
are still incredibly good value.
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