BURGUNDY
There is no other vineyard area in France that has seen as much change as in Burgundy over the last fifteen years.
This evolution can be gradual, as a winemaker refines and acquires new techniques or slowly hands over the reins to his children. Sometimes the evolution is overnight: a domaine, owing to family infighting, can be split in two; a parcel of old vines can be ripped out and replaced with young vines. But fundamentally the progression in quality in Burgundy today has been incredible. Even my father, who last came with me on a trip around the cellars of Burgundy in 1988, would hardly recognise the place. Back then the average age of the vignerons that we visited must have been sixty-five - today it is thirty-five. What demonstrates so well this intrinsic improvement in quality is that 15 years ago  it took one week to visit Burgundy; today it takes four.

Pouilly Fuissé